ThOP ThEN Thursday: What I’ve Learned Hangboarding (so far)

Pure Sex...

Pure Sex… My sweet set up

Aside: I’m a relatively inexperienced hangboarder. I just finished my 10th hangboard workout ever while following the Andersons’ Rock Climber’s Training Manual program (more on my experience training later).

1. Set up a pulley system to remove weight.  Using the right amount of weight so that all the reps can be completed with the last 2 being hard as shit is critical for getting the most out of a session.

2. Wear a chalk bag. 3 to 5 second rests between reps are stupid short if you need to chalk.

3. Psych music is critical. Dancing during long rests is optional but recommended.

4. Have a good timer; find one that makes noise so you don’t have to look at it. (a short post on my favorite free timer app is forthcoming).

5. There are different kinds of climbing pump: big muscle fatigue and finger flexor fatigue. Training finger strength unexpectedly improved my endurance.

6. Yoga and arm circles are a decent warm up for hangboarding.

7.  Writing while pumped makes my handwriting reminiscent of a 5 year old’s. However, keeping detailed records of weight removed/added, reps completed, and goals for the next session is incredibly motivating.

8.  Summoning the “grrr” is a skill that can be practiced and improved. The same try-hard I need to complete the last rep of my least favorite grip is the same try hard I can summon while actually climbing.

9. I’m more of a masochist than I thought. Every second of a 1/4 pad crimp digging into my fingers with music blasting is a special kind of joy.

10. If your hangboard is next to your sink do the dishes (with gloves on!!!) before your workout. The smells of old curry and greek yogurt are not psych inducing.




Everything and More: Bouldering Kit Part 1 (Basics)

Bouldering is rad.


So, the quote above might be misattributed, I’ll look into that later. Regardless bouldering is gymnastic, powerful, and simple in its complexity: rock, shoes, chalk, movement, and focus.

But this post isn’t about that side of bouldering; it’s about all the cool shit you can bring with you into the woods to be an ultimate bouldering geek and (maybe?!?) improve your climbing.

Now understand, this isn’t trad climbing or some big wall ascent. There are no cams, nuts, slings, or haul bags full of who know what else. It’s not about safety, it’s about decreasing your chuffer status and using tactics to send boulders!

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