Midweek Motivation: Visual Psych

Many different things make a bouldering video psych inducing. For short videos, most of the time I just want good footage of hard captivating problems. You can leave the story line at home for the short flicks…

Above is a great video from Euro power couple Katha Saurwein and Jorg Verhoven in RMNP.



Follow Friday – Morning Links

Its finally starting to feel like fall around here. Canned pumpkin just reappeared at Trader Joe’s, leaves are starting to change above 5000 feet, and I wore pants yesterday evening to stay warm.

As expected, I’m psyched for all things autumnal.

In honor of fall, I recommend you make this Protein Pumpkin Spiced Coffee part of a morning (or afternoon) near you. I had never combined coffee and protein powder until recently. It is a winning combination. I promise.

I don’t partake in twitter, but I certainly love some instagram… Below are two accounts that have brought considerable joy to my feed this week.

First, a stylish pup:

So, what time should I pick you up?

A post shared by Menswear Dog (@mensweardog) on

I mean, how can you not love cute anthropomorphism…

Second, two psyched (non-climber?!?) folks on an amazing trip in a sweet sprinter:

The calm after the storm. Baja Sur.

A post shared by Nikki Jakob Leika (@sprintervandiaries) on

There is a lot of serious day dream material on this account 🙂

Everything and More: Bouldering Kit Part 2 (Tactics)

Sure, I want to be stronger, but that takes long hours and hard work.

Most of the time I just want the climb I’m working on to feel better.

That is where tactics come in…. climbing smarter when climbing harder just isn’t possible.

There a lots of things tactically that climbers do intrinsically or with practice (ex: RESTING between attempts?!?) to improve their chances of sending the proj but most of them just involve using their brain rather than an actual tool out of the bouldering kit. However, there is one tactical implement I want to highlight:

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ThOP ThEN Thursday: What I’ve Learned Hangboarding (so far)

Pure Sex...

Pure Sex… My sweet set up

Aside: I’m a relatively inexperienced hangboarder. I just finished my 10th hangboard workout ever while following the Andersons’ Rock Climber’s Training Manual program (more on my experience training later).

1. Set up a pulley system to remove weight.  Using the right amount of weight so that all the reps can be completed with the last 2 being hard as shit is critical for getting the most out of a session.

2. Wear a chalk bag. 3 to 5 second rests between reps are stupid short if you need to chalk.

3. Psych music is critical. Dancing during long rests is optional but recommended.

4. Have a good timer; find one that makes noise so you don’t have to look at it. (a short post on my favorite free timer app is forthcoming).

5. There are different kinds of climbing pump: big muscle fatigue and finger flexor fatigue. Training finger strength unexpectedly improved my endurance.

6. Yoga and arm circles are a decent warm up for hangboarding.

7.  Writing while pumped makes my handwriting reminiscent of a 5 year old’s. However, keeping detailed records of weight removed/added, reps completed, and goals for the next session is incredibly motivating.

8.  Summoning the “grrr” is a skill that can be practiced and improved. The same try-hard I need to complete the last rep of my least favorite grip is the same try hard I can summon while actually climbing.

9. I’m more of a masochist than I thought. Every second of a 1/4 pad crimp digging into my fingers with music blasting is a special kind of joy.

10. If your hangboard is next to your sink do the dishes (with gloves on!!!) before your workout. The smells of old curry and greek yogurt are not psych inducing.



Everything and More: Bouldering Kit Part 1 (Basics)

Bouldering is rad.


So, the quote above might be misattributed, I’ll look into that later. Regardless bouldering is gymnastic, powerful, and simple in its complexity: rock, shoes, chalk, movement, and focus.

But this post isn’t about that side of bouldering; it’s about all the cool shit you can bring with you into the woods to be an ultimate bouldering geek and (maybe?!?) improve your climbing.

Now understand, this isn’t trad climbing or some big wall ascent. There are no cams, nuts, slings, or haul bags full of who know what else. It’s not about safety, it’s about decreasing your chuffer status and using tactics to send boulders!

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